grassroutesclimbing.com - Grassroutes Climbing | Digging deep to the heart of climbing

Description: Digging deep to the heart of climbing

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In November 2019, after doing The Cult Leader in Mormon Canyon, I was left with a bit of a sore finger to rehab. During that month, I took the time to explore and equip a few new lines for free climbing, including Dickels Delight and the line that would become the 9 Mile Cigarette.

I spent a few days here and there rope soloing on the pitches, but winter came and went twice before I got around to actually climbing on this route. It was always on the back burner until this summer. Zach Harrison and I went out for the first day of real climbing on it, and had a great time in pretty warm conditions. The bottom 4 pitches of the route are quite shady and inside a gully so they stay pretty cool in summer. That day we sent the first three pitches and did some cleaning work and anchor moving

A couple weeks later I came back with Wilson Cutbirth to lead pitch 4, the crux, and pitch 5, the slightly sandy but still-hard topout pitch. Conditions were crisp and I was able to send both pitches quickly.